Integra Type R buyers Checklist

[jdm4life]

I complied a checklist in my mind after obsessing about getting a car for a while. Now having my own dc2 after using this list as my only safety net, Im glad to say it payed off and I got a great car.

I have made a more detailed version of my checklist for any prospective buyers.

Integra buyers checklist:

Check to see if the bonnet is warm before you knock on the sellers door,
This is an old wheeler dealer trick. If the cars maybe been ran up to temp it may suggest cold start issues. If it is warm before you knock on the door ask some questions and if the answer doesn’t come sharpish then I’d be a little careful. Not a major issue but just something to keep in mind.

Service History/Receipts/Cambelt changes (60k)

Crucial for any Honda or any other car for that matter. If the car hasn’t been looked after then it won’t last as long and parts will start to drop off, maybe not on the way home (still possible) but a few months down the line.

Check the history for the scheduled cam belt changes and receipts that help back up the work which was done. It may be an idea to ring the places where work has been carried out in the past and dig up records for confirmation. Not always possible but if the car is known to reputable garages/workshops then they could offer some inside info on a car that know well.

M.O.T for mileage record

The best official way to keep track of mileage and also the cheapest. If all the certificates are present then that can only be a good sign. Also check if any advisory notices were issued during the last test. Also worth looking at a bimta mileage check on imports which isn’t expensive and may help put your mind at rest.

Exterior

Arches for rust (front/rear/bottom of quarters above skirt)
It is likely that in most cases older cars will show some signs of rust. Surface rust under the car on cross members/arms etc is a common occurrence and can usually be scrubbed off with a wire brush and resealed. Rust to bodywork however is more serious.

Advert’s that mention ‘Slight bubbling on the rear arches’ might be playing down the severity of the rust , however take it with a rather large pinch of salt. Rust on the surface often means it has had to eat it’s way through metal to get there.

The extra time taken to give it a thorough going over before you hand over your hard earned money might save a lot of heart ache a week later when you discover the car wasnt as soild as you thought. Be very observant when looking at a car, take your time and don’t feel rushed or pressured into a sale by a seller if you are not 100% happy about the car. Also NEVER look at a car in the rain, it will hide all sorts of imperfections in the bodywork and also mask noises on road test. If you must take a big towel and mop up the excess water by dabbing it over the panels.

If quotes of up to £1000 for bodywork to restore rust arches doesn’t dampen your interest in a car then account for that sort of expense. Take your wheeler dealer hat with you and make sure you put it on when talking about the money.

Take your time and take a torch, get on your belly and have a good root around under the car for any damage, rotting exhausts or anything else that catches your eye.

Roof seam/rubbers/cracking,

Older cars can suffer from perished rubbers. Not hugely expensive to replace but if you cannot live with it then that’s more expense to consider. The seam sealer at the back of the roof panel can crack and eventually rust if the car has been driven hard. Easy to see on white cars just open the boot and check of rusty stains at the back under the hatch lid
Panel gaps/shut lines,

Poor accident repairs will often show uneven gaps at the shut lines. The old trick of running a pound coin from the top of the shut line to the bottom to see if it nips works but the end of your finger is just as good and will not scrape the paint.

Panel colour match,

Accident damage means fresh paint. If the colour match is poor then it will be obvious. If you can’t live with dodgy colour matches then account for the extra paintwork required to correct things which won’t be cheap. Paint isn’t that expensive but the time to prepare panels for painting in bodyshops is.

Dents/scrathes/chips

Depending on how fussy you are dents and scrapes cost money to fix. If the car has a few then point them out before getting to the money part. A few quick shaved off the price with that in mind will save you when you come to get it sorted out.

Wheel/kurb damage,

Careless parking is a sign that the car has not been cared for as much as a seller might make out. The words “Cherished example” dont hold water if the wheels are a total mess. Small scrapes happen now and then but if it is any worse then it’s another bargaining chip.

Interior

Check condition of carpets, pedals, steering wheel and driver’s seat. Also compare the condition of each against the indicated mileage of the car. Be wary of super low mile cars with shoddy tired old interiors.

Rust under boot carpet. Rear lights can let in water so check for any wet areas either in the carpet, spare wheel recess are rust spots under the carpet. Also check for previous rear end chassis damage. Tool/hammer marks in the metal is a dead giveaway as is creases and over spray.

Transmission

Check for crunchy changes between 3rd/5th and into reverse,
Grinding or crunchy gear changes may be a symptom of worn gearbox synchro’s. Change up and down the box at higher rpm’s which is often when syncro issues will rear their ugly head. Also check reverse engages correctly when parking. A stiff reverse gear can be a pain and expensive to sort if you cannot live with it.

If there is grinding on all shifts that could suggest a clutch problem such was a worn clutch or air in the lines. Go through all the gears up and down over 5000rpm (except reverse of course ),
If there are no dodgy shift noises but the box feel’s a bit lumpy then a new set of shift bushes could be in order.

Diff whine at idle on dipped clutch and on over run at speed,
Diffs are expensive as are gearboxes. If there any mechanical whine like sounds coming from the transmission maybe best to walk away unless you have deep pockets.

Clutch condition/bite point,

Check the pedal is travel is not too long or close to the top and the bite point is strong. Fitting a new clutch is a costly task with garage labour rates so check the clutch feels positive and light. If the pedal is biting towards the top and /or is slipping it may need replaced soon. If the clutch feels strong but the bite point is on the high side it may just need adjusted.

Engine

Regular oil changes are critical for the good health of a vtec engine. Check the condition of the oil. Take the dipstick out and rub some of the oil between your fingertips and check it is clean and not black. Deposits in the oil could be due to the fact that regular oil changes have been missed.

Oil level- After a test drive when the car is up to operating temp lift the bonnet and check the oil level with the car on level ground. If it has been run too low then that could spell disaster for such a high revving engine.
Vtec engage point

Vtec should be a smooth changeover at 6000rpm. If it is any different ask if any changes have been made to the ecu/mapping etc. Vtec controllers can mess with this changeover point so if the switch isnt at 6k then check for a controller unit.

Blue smoke on vtec,

Tell tale sign of piston ring/bore sealing problems, the dreaded oil burning blue smoke. Also check for smoke on start up. Ask the seller to start the car and you move around the back to check.

Frequency of radiator cooling fan operation. If the fan is on all the time it could point to issues with the cooling system. Overheating is a serious problem and shouldn’t be overlooked. Also check for gunk under the coolant cap. The coolant should be fairly clean looking. The thermostat when the car is up to temp will control the temperature of the engine/cooling system and switch the fan on and off when required.

Check for leaks, fluid levels, coolant colour. While the bonnet is up after the test drive check the ground under the car and for any drips or wet patches anywhere.

Check for excessive air coming from rocker cover with oil filler cap removed at idle,

If the cylinders are not sealing in the bores efficiently, excessive air can escape and will be evident with the cap removed at idle. The odd puff of air is fine but anything more may indicate that there a more serious issue with the engine.

Brakes/suspension/tyres

Brake judder from worn discs. Brakes on performance cars get hammered when constantly scrubbing off all that speed. If they get too hot they could warp and would be expensive to replace. Also check that the car comes to a stop in a straight line on a nice smooth flat road surface.

Clunks/clonks/rattles from steering rack/suspension. Moving parts on cars like suspension wear out. Loose components on performance cars is not a good idea. Listen for any knocks or clunks when turning the steering wheel while moving and while parking. Worn bushes are not major issues but they will cost you to replace and make the handling of the car wooly.

Tyre tread level, wear rate/even/uneven wear. If the geometry isn’t setup well or damage has occurred to the suspension, the tyres wear will be uneven. A simple test is to check all four tyres for uneven wear rates. While you’re at it check that the tyres are a decent brand and that they all match. If the seller has looked after the car then they should have splashed out on good rubber to keep the car on the tarmac. Cheap and nasty tyres are dangerous on a fast car.

Hopefully some of that will be of use to a few people.

[Graeme]

Nice work man, will no doubt come in very useful for buyers.

Cheers.